Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace Complex's Main Entry

Topkapi Palace stands on the ruins of Byzantium, the ancient Greek settlement at the eastern tip of the Old Town peninsula.  After capturing Constantinople, Ottoman Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror chose this prime location, overlooking the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn, as the administrative center of his empire.  in the 1470s he built a large complex with offices, military barracks, a council chamber, and a reception hall.  A century later, Topkapi became the sultan's residence when Suleyman the Magnificent turned it into a home.  Topkapi efficiently served as the sole administrative palace for Ottoman sultans for more than 400 years, until a new European-style palace was built on the Bosphorus in the mid-19th century, Dolmabahce Palace.

The Main Gate is in the Outer Wall

The word "Topkapi" means "cannon door", a reference to one of the gates on the old Byzantine wall along the Sea of Marmara.  Originally known as the sultan's "New Palace," Topkapi was gradually enlarged over the centuries.  Each reigning sultan contributed his own flourishes, according to the style of the era.  Unlike many European palaces, which were built all at once, Topkapi Palace was constructed gradually and organically over time.  The results is a funhouse of architectural styles.  Since no two buildings of the complex were built at the same time, they are on different levels.  passing through doorways or gates we have to always step up or down.  This hodgepodge of buildings was totally functional, each addition had its purpose and was suited for its time.  The visual mess of Topkapi Palace comes together to give a vibrant, multilayered feel for the lifestyle of the sultans.

Ahmet III Fountain

In Istanbul, street fountains like this one are an important example of civic architecture.  This early-18th-century structure is right outside the main gate.  It has a fountain on each facade, and each fountain is decorated with triangular niches on either side.  The walls are decorated with tiles, filed designs, and calligraphy, including the phrase, "Turn the tap with the name of Allah, the Protector, and the Merciful.  Drink the water, and say a prayer for Sultan Ahmet." They were repaving around the fountain, so we could not get too close.

Sogukcesme

Before we entered the Imperial Gate of Topkapi Palace, we detoured onto a cobble-stone lane called Sogukcesme.  This quaint street runs between the Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace outer walls.  You can see the centuries old wall behind the 19th-century townhouses.  They have been recently restored and are now part of a boutique hotel.

Imperial Gate

Cindy is at the main entrance to the Topkapi Palace grounds.  She had said "Merhaba" (hello) to the soldier, and so he asked some tourist to move out of the way so Ben could take a picture of them!  Mehmet the Conqueror built the gate when he chose this site as his administrative center in the 15th-century.  Just above the entryway, notice his imperial signature, or tugra.  For centuries the Imperial Gate stayed open from the first prayer of the morning at sunrise, until the last at evening sunset.  Originally there was a wooden pavilion above the gate, from which the women of the Harem could watch the colorful processions into and out of the palace.

First Courtyard

Ben is at the edge of this wide-open space that was reserved for public officials, civil servants, and service personnel.  It was also called the "Courtyard of Janissaries," for the royal soldiers who assembled here.  Until a destructive mid-19th-century fire, the courtyard was more built-up with court buildings.  Close to the gate we just came through were offices of treasury officials.  Across from that was the bakery, supplying bread to the staff and palace residents.  All this, plus guard barracks and dormitories are gone without a trace, and now this area resembles a large park with extensive grassy lawns and views of the Bosphorus behind Ben. 

Hagia Irene 

This important early-Chistian church hides inside the first walls of Topkapi Palace.  Often mistakenly interpreted as "St. Irene," the church's name actually means "Divine Peace," an attribute of God.  The present structure dates back to the reign of Justinian in the sixth century.  The original Hagia Irene church that stood on this site is thought to have been built by Constantine.  Soon after Constantine split the Roman Empire between West and East, with the Eastern capital here, in Byzantium, Hagia Irene hosted the Second Ecumenical Council to set the course for the new church in 381AD.  Decisions made in this building shaped Eastern Orthodox traditions for centuries to come.  In the short term, the council, which discussed theological questions such as whether Jesus was human, divine, or both, sparked social struggles and riots in the early history of the capital city.  Hagia Irene served as the patriarchal church of Constantinople until Hagia Sophia was built.  Under Ottoman rule, Hagia Irene was used as an arsenal by the imperial guards, and later to store artifacts from the Istanbul Archeological Museum.  The interior of Hagia Irene was not open to the public at this time.  Be sure to look at the Topkapi Palace Album on the right to see many more photos of the ruins around her.

Gate of Salutation

This gate is also known as the Middle Gate.  The Gate of Salutation dates from the mid-16th century, when towers were used for defense as much as for decoration.  It looks like European castles from the Middle Ages and was likely modeled after those fortresses.  Guards who defended the towers lived on either side of the gate. Notice the slits for archers? Right above the doorway is the gilded tugra of Sultan Mahmut II.  Above that, in Arabic calligraphy, is the phrase, "There is no other God but Allah, and Muhammad is his Prophet." Beyond this point, everyone except the sultan had to leave their horse outside and walk in.  

Second Courtyard

Ben is looking at a miniature of the palace grounds.  We are now in the ceremonial courtyard, host to centuries of coronations and successions.  We can just imagine the courtyard filled with hundreds of residents, royal family members, viziers, soldiers, and staff all dressed in their finest attire, standing patiently in line for their turn to kiss the skirt of the sultan's caftan to show their respect and obedience. 

Kitchen Complex

Much of Topkapi Palace burned down in the 16th century, thanks to a fire started in these kitchens due to overheated oil in a pan, plus soot-clogged chimneys.  Suleyman the Magnificent's royal architect, Sinan, rebuilt the grand-scale complex featuring the 10 separate kitchen chambers, each with an elevated dome and a tall chimney for better ventilation. They now hold the Chinese Porcelain Collection, Dessert Kitchen, and Kitchen Dormitory with the Silverware and European Porcelain exhibits.   These exhibits were closed today.  

Divan Tower

Cindy is walking towards the tall Divan Tower.  In front of the tower, with the large eave, is the Divan, the council chamber where the viziers of the imperial council met.  

Divan

Ben is outside The Divan that was the council chamber where the viziers got together to discuss state affairs.  This is where the Ottoman Empire was governed for almost 400 years.  This was built by Mehmet the Conqueror in the 15th century, then it burned down.  It was rebuilt a century later by the royal architect Sinan.  During the "Tulip Era" in the early 18th century, Sultan Ahmet III redecorated the rooms in Rococo style, which was the trend in Europe at the time.

Office of the Record-Keeper

Notice how the Divan's frilly Rococo flourishes clash with the rest of the Topkapi ensemble.  This room is the office of the Record-Keeper, who kept track of every word spoken in the Divan.

Council Chamber

The Divan, or Council Chamber, is decorated with original 16th-century tiles.  The viziers would sit on the large sofa according to their rank in the hierarchy.  This is why some people call sofas "divans".  The Grand Vizier took the seat directly across from the door (where we are standing to take this picture).  In the early years of the Divan, the sultan would actually attended these meetings.  Later, the sultan would simply relax in the next room and eavesdrop as he liked through the window with the metal grill right above the Grand Vizier's seat.  This window was known as "the Eye."

Imperial Treasury's Armory

This brick-and-stone building is the Imperial Treasury's Armory that held taxes collected from the provinces and was also where janissaries and palace staff went to collect their paychecks.  Ben is going in to find his paycheck!  He won't find it because today this building exhibits a small but interesting armory collection.  Pictures were not allowed.  We did see several cool things; a yatagan, which is a lightweight, curved sword carried by janissaries; an enormous two-handed sword dated from the Crusades; a Samurai outfit that was a gift from Japan to the Sultan; a sword that belonged to Mehmet the Conqueror's with Quran verses inscribed on the blade.  

Gate of Felicity (Bab-us Saade)

This striking gate consists of a domed roof delicately carried by four slender columns.  That tree to the right of the gate is a centuries-old sycamore.  The gate is also known as the "Gate of the White Eunuchs."  White Eunuchs were instructors, guards, and caretakers for the palace school, which occupied much of the Third Courtyard beyond this gate.  Here the empire's top officials were educated, including ranking janissary leaders.  

On either side of the gate are antique designs and decorative columns.  The tour group on the right are looking at the hole in the raised marble paving stone.  This was used to hold the royal banner, which flew here when new sultans were coronated on this very spot!

These landscape paintings are up on the inside overhang of the gate.  They were the trend during the last two centuries of the Ottoman Empire.  

Hall of Holy Relics

This collection shows off some of the most significant holy items of the Muslim faith.  These relics were brought to Istanbul in the early 16th century from Egypt, Mecca, and Medina, when the Ottomans conquered those lands.  In the past, the relics were only available to members of the Ottoman dynasty and handpicked guests, and presented to the public only on religious days.  But today they are viewable at anytime, offering an impressive glimpse into the world of Islam.  Cindy is standing by the door that is a sight in itself.  It has gilded decorations and Arabic calligraphy reading, "There is no other God but Allah, and Muhammad is his Prophet."  On either side of the entrance, you see the imperial signatures.  As this is a very holy site for Muslims, we saw people praying with their hands open, and no pictures were allowed inside.  

Here is a close up of the beautiful 16th-century tiles that surround the doorway.  As we went through the door, we could hear chanting.  This was because an imam was reading verses from the Quran as they do 24 hours a day, as imams have, nonstop since the 16th century!  There was also a pool in the center of the room to wash your hands, as is tradition.  There were many holy items to the Islam faith; a collection of keys and locks for the Kabaa, Muhammad's sandals, Moses' staff, Abraham's granite cooking pot, David's sword,  Joseph's turban, hair from Muhammad's beard, his sword, bow and the mantle that he wore.  

Fourth Courtyard

The most intimate and cozy of Topkapi's courtyards, the Fourth Courtyard enjoys fine views over the Golden Horn and Bosphorus, and is dotted with several decorative pavilions, most of them built in the mid 17th- century by Murat IV and his younger brother, Ibrahim the Mad!

Revan Pavilion

 Sultan Murat IV built this pavilion to commemorate his military victory against the Persians on the eastern front.  This is very typical of the style of the time:  three bays decorated with sofas and large pillows;

 decorated with mostly blue and white 17th-century Iznik tiles; window shutters; roofed with a central dome

cupboards doors inlaid with mother-of-pearl and tortoiseshell.

Circumcision Room

Murat's younger brother, Ibrahim the Mad, built this pavilion, which was used over the next two centuries for the ritual circumcision of heirs to the throne.  Ben was not comfortable in here.

It's slathered inside and out with a contrasting patchwork of fine 17th-century Iznik tiles.

Pool on the Terrace

The pool is empty, but there are tales of wild fantasies enacted poolside by Ibrahim the Mad and members of his harem, or how he would throw coins into the water to watch guards dive in after them.  

Spectacular Views from the end of the Palace

This is looking towards the New District and the Galata Tower

This was looking north, up the Bosphorus Strait.  You can still see the old sea walls down below.  It was bone chilling cold and windy.

This was looking east, toward the Asian side of Istanbul.  Again, you can see the old sea walls down below.  

This was looking south, towards the Sea of Marmara.  See the open air cafe?  It was empty because it was too cold!  

Leaving the Palace

This was a walking path within the Palace grounds.  It is the upper part of a large cistern underground.

This is Ben not resisting petting one of many friendly cats on the Palace grounds

These are a few of the soldiers that stand guard around the Palace entrance.  

This is Ben trying on a Fez at a tourist shop outside the Palace.  Does he look old school Turkish?

Snack at a very Turkish restaurant.  It's a Turkish pizza, bread with cheese.

Classic Turkish lamps and pashinas for customers in the restaurant to use if they get cold

A classic kaftan 

Our walk to the ferry and home for the night