Hagia Sophia

Aya Sofya

Background:  

Hagia Sophia (eye-ah son-fee-yah) was built over the remains of at least two earlier churches.  After a second of these churches was destroyed in the Nika riots in A.D. 532, Emperor Justinian I wasted no time, immediately putting his plan for Hagia Sophia into action.  He asked for the near-impossible: a church with unbelievably grand proportions, a monument that would last for centuries and keep his name alive for future generations.

Justinian appointed two geometricians to do the job: Anthemius, from the Aegean town of Tralles, and his assistant, Isidore of Miletus.  Both knew from the start that this would be a risky project.  Making Justinian's vision a reality would involve enormous challenges.  But they courageously went forward, creating a masterpiece unlike anything seen before.

More than 7,500 architects, stonemasons, bricklayers, plasterers, sculptors, painters, and mosaic artists worked around the clock for 5 years to complete Hagia Sophia, and drain the treasury, faster than even the emperor had anticipated.  In December of 537, the Great Church of Constantinople held its first service in the presence of Emperor Justinian and the Patriarch of Constantinople.

The church was a huge success story for Justinian, who was understandably satisfied with his achievement.  As the story goes, when he stepped inside the church, he exclaimed, "Solomon, I have surpassed you!"  In the long history of the empire, the Byzantines would never again construct such a grand edifice, but its design would influence architects for centuries.

Hagia Sofia was a legend even before it was completed.  People came from all over to watch the great dome slowly rise above the landscape of the city.  It was the first thing that merchants saw from approaching ships and caravans.  Hagia Sophia soon became a landmark, and it continues to hold a special place in the mystical skyline of Istanbul.  

The structure served as a church for nearly a millennium.  For a thousand years it stood as the greatest dome in the world, until the Renaissance, when Brunelleschi built his famous dome in Florence.  

The day the Ottomans captured Constantinople in 1453, Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque.  Most of the functional elements that decorated the church were removed, and its figurative mosaics and frescoes were plastered over in accordance with Islamic custom.  Today the interior holds elements mostly from the time when Hagia Sophia was used as a mosque, from 1453 until 1934, when it became a museum.  You could fit Paris' Notre Dame Cathedral under Hagia Sophia's dome or the Statue of Liberty, minus her torch.  Nearly 1,500 years later, Hagia Sofia still dominates Istanbul's skyline. - RICK STEVES' ISTANBUL

Vestibule of Guards

Cindy is standing under a pillar before the Vestibule of Guards entrance to Hagia Sophia.  Notice the Arabic translated into Turkish on the pillar?  According to Islamic tradition, in the 7th century, Muhammad predicted that Constantinople would be conquered, 8 centuries later, his prediction came to pass.

Bronze Doors

Ben is standing by the Bronze doors that separate the Vestibule of the Guards from the Interior Narthex.  The Vestibule of the Guards had its own entry for the imperial guards to wait in while the emperor attended church services.  Byzantine emperors used this entryway because it was close to the royal palace.  It is believed that these huge doors were brought here from an ancient temple in Antioch sometime after Justinian's reign.  These doors can't open or close, they became stuck in place when the marble floor was renovated and raised!

Interior Narthex

Ben is standing in about the middle of Hagia Sophia's interior narthex.  It is an amazing space, with 9 vaulted bays richly decorated with mosaics.  The walls on either side are lined with inch-thick marble panels, which were glued to the wall with stucco and pinned with iron rods.  In some parts of the building, like the Vestibule of Guards, the iron rusted, and over time the marble pieces began to fall off.  But here in the interior narthex, which is more protected from the elements, after 15 centuries, the panels hang on.

On the narthex ceiling are original Justinian mosaics that survived the Iconoclast Era because they were non-figurative.  The church's designer, Anthemius, sought to give the impression of movement.  These mosaic pieces are interspersed with randomly placed bits of semiprecious stones that change from muted shades to brilliant reflection, depending on the direction of the light.  Since services generally took place after sunset, the mosaic artists designed their work to be vivid even in flickering candlelight.  You can see the simple polychrome crosses and starry shapes on a golden background.  

Imperial Gate

Ben is standing in the Imperial Gate with the Nave in the background!  This majestic doorway was reserved for the emperor and it was only opened for him, so Ben is feeling pretty special right now.  Look at the top of the door frame and see the metal hooks attached.  The Ottomans added these to hold leather curtains to protect worshippers from dust and to reduce the interruption of a giant door opening and closing.  

Mosaic of Christ with Emperor Leo VI

This is a panel glittering above the Imperial Gate.  The emperor known as "Leo the Wise" is remembered more for his multiple marriages than his intellect.  His first 3 wives died without giving him a child, so he married his mistress, and mother of his son Zoe Carbonospina.  This sparked a scandal.  The emperor was excommunicated by the patriarch and barred from attending the Christmas services in A.D. 906.  In the scene above, Leo seems to be asking for forgiveness, prostrating himself before Jesus, who blesses the emperor.  The Greek reads, "May peace be with you.  I am the light of the earth."  Mary and the Archangel Gabriel are portrayed in the roundels on either side of Jesus.  This was whitewashed over by the Ottomans and rediscovered in 1933.  

Nave

One picture cannot do this space justice.  You must wait to see the album on Hagia Sophia.  Walking into this space was overwhelming.  Remember, the Notre-Dame would fit within the great dome you can see with the ring of windows at the bottom of it, and the Statue of Liberty could do jumping jacks in here.  

At the base of the dome, between intersecting arches, are winged seraphim.  Gold-leaf masks or medallions cover these angels' faces.  The 2 on the right and bottom of the photo are nearest the apse and are from the 14th century. 

One Ottoman addition are the Arabic calligraphy on eight 24-foot wide medallions suspended at the base of the arches supporting the central and side domes.  You can see one on the left of this picture.  These huge, leather-wrapped wooden medallions were added in the 19th century.  In a church, you'd see paintings of Biblical figures and saints, but, in a mosque you'll see ornately written names of Muslim figures.  

Mimber

Ben is standing in front of, but to the side of the Mimber.  This is the pulpit in a mosque, used by the imam to deliver his sermon on Fridays, or to talk to the public on special occasions.  The imam stands halfway up the stairs as a sign of respect, reserving the uppermost step for the Prophet Mohammad.

Apse

When Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque, a small off-center niche was added in the apse's circular wall.  Called the mihrab, this niche shows the precise direction of Mecca to face during prayers.  The columns flanking the mihrab are actually huge candles, standard fixtures in royal mosques.  

Mosaic of Mary and the Christ Child

This is high above the mihrab, on the underside of the semi-dome.  Christ is dressed in gold.  Part of the background is missing.  This mosaic is the oldest one in Hagia Sophia, dating from the 9th century.  It may have been the first figurative mosaic added after the Iconoclast Era, replacing a cross-design mosaic from an earlier period.

Mosaic of Archangel Gabriel

He is on the right end of the arch from Mary and the Christ Child, just before the semi-dome of the Apse. His wings are sweeping down to the ground.  On the opposite arch there was once a similar mosaic of the Archangel Michael, but it is no longer there : (

Sultan's Loge

On the left side of the Apse is a frilly gilded room.  This is the elevated prayer section for the sultans.  This area was added in the 19th century.  

Green Marble Columns

For you structural engineering types:  These columns carry the upper galleries, which we will see soon, and also provide support to the domes, easing the burden on the buttresses and the exterior walls.  Look at  richly decorated white-marble capitals of these columns.

Alabaster Urn

Ben is standing by what looks like a 5-foot tall alabaster egg, but it is an Urn.  This is one of 2 Hellenistic-era urns from the 2nd century.  The sultan brought them to Istanbul from Pergamon, the formidable ancient acropolis of north Aegean Turkey.  You can see a tap mounted in the side (the small black spot near the bottom).  Traditionally, Ottoman mosques had functional fountains inside to provide drinking water for worshippers.  

Porphyry Columns

Ben is standing between 2 purple Porphyry Columns that are on either side of the Alabaster Urn.  They are older than Hagia Sophia.  Two of these columns stand at each corner, so 8 in all.  Long ago, iron girdles were placed around the columns to prevent further damage because they had cracks in them.  

Column of St. Gregory

Cindy just pulled her thumb out of the hole in the column to see if it was damp.  Why?  Beside Ben wouldn't do it?  This is the legendary "perspiring column" or the Column of St. Gregory, the miracle worker.  For centuries, people believed this column "wept" holy water that could cure afflictions such as eye diseases and infertility.  How does it work, you ask?  You put your thumb in the hole, and if it comes out feeling damp, your prayers will be answered.  If that doesn't work, try putting your thumb in the hole again and make a complete 360-degree circle with your hand, with your thumb still in the hole.  You can see the metal surrounding the hole has been polished by millions of hands over the years.  Did it work for Cindy?  She feels pretty healthy right now, so you decide!

Ramp up to the Upper Galleries

Ben is at the top of one of the turns in the Ramp up to the Upper Galleries.  Why this ramp with stones that are smooth and uneven and not stairs, you may ask?  Because those of exalted rank were either carried by their servants, or rode up on horseback.  

Upper West Gallery

Ben is standing with his back to a direct view of the apse across the whole nave.  He is also standing on a green marble circle in the floor right before the balustrade, with an ensemble of matching green columns on either side.  This was the spot reserved for the empress' throne so they would have a direct view of the apse.  

Gate of Heaven and Hell

Ben is walking through this marble half-wall, known as the Gate of Heaven and Hell and into the Upper South Gallery

Deesis Mosaic

Ben is below the Deesis Mosaic, one of the finest of Hagia Sophia's Byzantine mosaics, though certainly not its best preserved.  Dating from the 13th or 14th century, its theme is depicting the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist asking Jesus for the salvation of souls.  This is commonly seen in Eastern Orthodox churches.  The workmanship is fascinating, especially the expression and detail in the faces.  

Mosaic of the Virgin and Child with Emperor John Commenus and Empress Irene

Mary stands in the center, holding the Christ Child in her arms.  Christ's right hand extends in blessing, and he holds a scroll in his left hand.  The Emperor offers Christ a bag of money, and the Empress presents a scroll.  Their son Prince Alexius is portrayed to his mom's left on the adjoining pier.  He was only added to the scene after he became co-emperor at the age of 17.  

Mosaic of Christ with Emperor Constantine IX Monomachus and Empress Zoe

This is from the 11th century.  Constantine and Zoe are portrayed in ceremonial garments, flanking Christ on his throne.  The inscription above the emperor's head reads "Sovereign of Romans, Constantine Monomachus," while the empress is identified as "Zoe, the most pious Augusta."  Here's the juicy story on these royals:  Empress Zoe was the daughter of an emperor who had no male heirs.  She married Romanus Argyrus, but he was killed in his bath a few years later.  Zoe then married her young lover, Michael IV, and within a few years, he too was dead.  His nephew, Michael V, was named co-emperor and sent Zoe into exile.  But the well-connected Zoe found a way back, had Michael V deposed, and at the age of 65 married a third time, to Constantine Monomachus.

That's 3 husbands in all, and a lot of extra work for the mosaic artists.  Instead of changing the image of Zoe's husband each time, they simply changed the title over his head.  Zoe's face was erased by Michael V, then restored to its youthful appearance after she resumed her reign and married Constantine.  

Previous Churches

This is a hole right outside the main enterance to Hagia Sophia.  It it the remains of the earlier Theodosian Church.  At least 2 earlier churches stood on this spot.  No trace remains of the first church, where construction of Hagia Sophia began in the 4th century.  The next church, believed to have been built by Theodosius II, was grander in scale and more elaborate.  This second church was also destroyed during a religious uprising.  The Nika riots of 532 that caused the death of more than 30,000 people.  Half the city was reduced to ashes, including this church. 

You can see the bases of the columns that supported the entry porch and fragments of marble blocks with carved designs of sheep.  

Please look for the Hagia Sophia Album to come up on the right side for many more great pictures of this amazing museum.

Golden Milestone

Just across the busy street from Hagia Sophia, with a tram going by every 10 minutes, is the Golden Milestone.  It is on the street called Divan Yolu and was also Constantinople's main transportation artery in Byzantine times, when it was named Mese or "Middle Way".  The road started right here, where the Golden Milestone still stands in a pit now. Some 1,500 years ago, the Byzantines considered this point the center of the world.  This ancient and once-gilded milestone showed the distance to key locations within the empire.  Today it's a mere stub worn down by the centuries.  Nothing remains of its decorative arches, or the statues that once adorned it.  : (

Underground Cistern

Just around the corner from the Golden Milestone, we went underground to see this vast underground reservoir that dates back to Byzantine Emperor Justinian's reign in the 6th century.  The Turks call it yerebatan sarayi, which means "sunken place."  

This massive reservoir, larger by far than any other in Constantinople, was built to meet the needs of a fast growing capital city and to provide precious water in case of a shortage.  The cistern covers an area about the size of 2 football fields and is big enough to hold 27 millions gallons of fresh water.  

Cindy is standing in front of a forest of 336 columns supporting the brick ceiling.  Most of these were recycled from earlier Roman ruins in and around the city.  See the variety of capitals.  Clay pipes and aqueducts carried water 12 miles to this cistern.  

Way down at the far end of the cistern are 2 recycled Medusa heads.  Here is the one lying on it's side squeezed under a pillar.  The Greeks often carved this fearsome mythological gorgon, with hair made of snakes and a gaze that could turn people to stone, into tombstone or cemetery walls to scare off grave robbers.  In Roman times, she became the protector of temples.  When Christianity took hold, Medusa was a reminder of the not-so distant Roman persecution of Christians, so it may be no coincidence that these pagan fragments were left here in the dark corner of the cistern, never to see daylight again!

Cindy and Ben came out from underground and had coffee and tea at a great place right by Hagia Sophia.  We then toured around Sultanahmet Park a little, talked to a carpet salesman for awhile.  We got some great pictures of the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque (that we will tour this up coming weekend) at dusk while the sky was dramatic and the buildings were lit up, like the picture at the top of this posting.  We then hopped the tram to the Galata Bridge and walked across the bridge to meet Gordon and Jimmy for dinner in the New City.  

Here is Ben and Jimmy by a fountain at Taksim Square.

Cindy, Ben and Gordon by another fancy fountain.

We finally settled on this place to eat. Cindy is happy with her lamb kabobs and her Raki, which is the quintessentially Turkish firewater.  The waiter served it when we asked for another water, so Cindy was willing to have it, since Ben and Jimmy had their beer and Gordon does not drink.  It is made of distilled grape juice and anise, so it taste of strong licorice.  Turks dilute it with water or ice, which turns it cloudy white, but Cindy just enjoyed it neat.  

We had an interesting walk back to the Tunel Funicular and then caught the last ferry back to the Asian side and home.  This is Ben, Gordon and Jimmy navigating some steep, windy stairs.

It was a long, fun-filled and interesting day.

We spent all Sunday looking for apartments.

We might have found one we like this Friday and hope to make our decision on Monday. 

Look for more albums to be posted in a few days.